Costco: a little slice of America with a giant dash of Taiwan

One of my relatives mentioned going to Costco so I couldn't resist piping up to exclaim, "Costco, I love Costco, can I go to Costco?" Costco in Taipei pretty much feels like any Costco in America except this one was two floors, a small concession to its urban location. Same cavernous warehouse with pallets look and feel with a mix of American and Asian products tailored to the local tastes. 

You've got your bulk M&Ms vs. bulk Chinese candies and your bulk Skippy PB vs. giant jars of black sesame paste. I have a new theory that you can figure out what "authentic" foods the "locals" enjoy by going to a Costco. People only buy in bulk things they eat a lot of and Costco is only going to sell products that people want to buy. Based on this theory of mine, I can report on the following local food trends surmised from today's Costco trip.

Everyone loves Pandas and they love Panda cookies even more

Instant savory porridge is huge for breakfast. It's kinda like packets of instant oatmeal. They offer three different flavors of bulk instant porridge so they must turn over this SKU pretty quickly

BSS+J will be the next next thing among the playground set

Black Sesame Spread + Jelly

I bought a giant tub to bring home myself

[Costco's] Kirkland Signature offers Singapore Laksa, a curry noodle like dish. I wonder if the folks back in Kirkland, WA enjoy this dish in the Costco company cafeteria?

Chip aisle featured about 6 varieties of bulk chips, one of which was Lays Seaweed Potato Chips. I'm guessing that this product is hugely popular...why else would people buy five pound bags of this stuff

"Simple" Fancy Pants Meal

We usually prefer trying local foods when we travel, but we usually try to go out for one nice meal to shake things up so we checked out Restaurant Andre for lunch while we were in Singapore. We opted for the "simpler" daily lunch menu which was pretty involved so I'm not sure I could handle their full on evening menu that's about three times longer and three times more costly. It was definitely a little pretentious and I wasn't really into the snooty French server, but the food was mostly delicious and it was a nice civil respite from our daily street food crawls which typically have us inhaling snacks in the middle of the street and probably chewing with our mouths open.

The "simple" lunch menu

Snacking: fried sweet shrimp heads in cones

Tiny Baguette and Butter

Blue Lobster "Raviolis", Tomato-Rhubarb-Celary

Pineapple-Strawberry Sago Vinaigrette

Lemon Thyme Sorbet, Wild Greens

Wam Scallop Potato "Gnocchi"

Spring Asparagus Salad

Champignons, Bruxelles, Wild Herbs

Perigord Black Truffle Coulis

Warm Foie Gras Jelly

Fleur De Sel and Japanese Chive

This was "very very delicious"

I'm digging into my Warm Fois Gras Jelly while Adam patiently takes photos

Oyster Blad "A La Plancha"

Wild Greens Taboule and Pickles

Aromatic Oil, Roasted Onion Jus

Basically, it's beef. The Taboule was nice and had a little crunch from puffed rice

First extra dessert

Second extra dessert was ice cream with dehydrated crunchy berries

"Adam...can I please eat my dessert?"

Lemon "Blanc Manger" / Shaved Macadamia Nuts

Herb Juice and Pistachio Oil

Toasted Thunder Tea Ice-Cream

Not my favorite dessert. The two pre-desserts were actually better since I'm not really into eating grass soup for dessert

How to know you've "done good?"

Even though plasticmom is not stereotypically "Chinese" and will actually verbally affirm me, we are afterall Chinese. Here are a few ways I've figured out that I've "done good" in the food purchasing category.

Pineapple Cakes

When Adam and I went to Jiufen, I noticed a whole bunch of bakeries selling pineapple cakes. Admittedly, they sell pineapple cakes pretty much everywhere in Taiwan, but I was curious if the pineapple cakes were especially delicious here in Jiafen so I asked our tour guide if he had a recommendation for pineapple cakes. In fact, he did have a favorite pineapple cake bakery and walked us over where they offered us some samples. Furthermore, the samples were delicious so Adam and I decided to buy a few boxes to bring home since they're some of my family's favorite treats. The following is a reconstructed conversation:

plasticann: plasticmom, we brought back boxes of pineapple cakes from Jiafen for you.

plasticmom: What??? Why did you buy pineapple cakes from Jiafen? [Everyone knows] the best pineapple cakes are from Keelung. 

plasticann: Well, we tried the samples and we thought they were pretty good so we wanted to get you a gift.

plasticmom: Ok ok! 

plasticann: [taking plasticmom aside] plasticmom...it's a gift...the pineapple cakes are going to be OK even though they're from Jiafen. Just enjoy them...it's a gift.

plasticmom: Ha ha! Ok! Thank you for the gift.

[One week later when I came back from Singapore]

plasticann: [looking at the kitchen table] What are these two pineapple cakes for?

plasticmom: We saved you two pineapple cakes.

plasticann: Um, did they taste OK?

plasticmom: Yeah, they were really good, very delicious. We ate them all super fast so we saved you two so you could try them.

plasticann: [Whew!] I'm glad they were good.

plasticmom: Sorry I said they wouldn't be good since they weren't from Keelung. You were right!

plasticann: That's OK...are you sure they were good? Are you just saying that?

Other Family: Ohhh, they were very good. I ate them in twos.

Postscript: You know it's good when they're eating pineapple cakes in units of two. That's the ultimate compliment because these people vote with their stomachs. In retrospect, of course the pineapple cakes were going to be awesome. Would plasticann gift plasticmom crappy pineapple cakes? That's crazy talk!

Leek Pies...looks like a calzone filled with leeks and other veggies

I wanted to find the hole in the wall soybean milk / fried cruller place today and I invited plasticmom to come with. However, she declined because it was "too far" so I went over on my own and picked up some soybean milk, fried cruller in bread sandwich and a leek pie for plasticmom to try.

plasticann: Hey guys, I brought back a leek pie for you to try.

plasticmom: [only politely interested] Thank you! Where did you go?

plasticann: Around the corner, down the street, turn left...

plasticmom: Geez, that's soooo far.

plasticann: [cutting the pie in pieces] Do you want to try some?

plasticmom: [politely] Sure, I'll have a bite.

[plasticmom has a "little bite" then another "little bite" and then offers it to Other Family]

plasticmom: Are you planning to eat the rest of that [leek pie]?

plasticann: No, it's all yours. Do you like it?

plasticmom: I like that it has a lot of veggies. I'm eating the veggies.

[20 minutes later after breakfast]

plasticmom: What time do you think that place opens on Monday?

plasticann: What place?

plasticmom: The leek pie place?

plasticann: They open around 6am.

plasticmom: Yeah, but what time do they have the leek pies?

plasticann: I guess by 8 or 9.

plasticmom: We should get some for your great aunt. She'll like it.

plasticann: Great! I'd be happy to go buy them on Monday. How many should I get?

plasticmom: I want to come with you.

plasticann: I'm happy to go on my own. I don't want you to walk too far. 

plasticmom: I need to come with you so I know how to find the place again after you go home. 

Postscript: Here are some clues that plasticmom communicates that you've "done good:"

• she keeps eating the food even after the first polite "little bite"
• she offers some to Other Family
• she asks if you plan on eating your portion
• she asks where "exactly" the store is
• she asks to come with and walk a "far" distance to buy more just so she can find the store again
• she wants to "gift" a few to her aunt on her next visit

Taichung day trip...all aboard the high speed rail

plasticmom was feeling nostalgic for her youth and the 70s so she really wanted to check out Taichung and the Feng Jia Night Market because she used to go there when she was young. So the three of us hopped on the high speed rail for a day trip adventure. We saw a few sights including Tunghai University with it's IM Pei designed Luce Chapel and the National Art Museum before we hit the Feng Jia Night Market near yet another university called...you guessed it...Feng Jia.

Fried Squid with "original" flavoring. They also had like cheese, wasabi, etc.

Adam wielding his blood cake dipped in grounded peanuts and cilantro. Looks like an ice cream bar, but do not be fooled, it's a cake made with blood and it's savory. I should note that plasticmom and I REFUSED to eat this snack so Adam was totally on his own here and he liked it. Adam gets the "adventurous eater" award for sure.

Takoyaki Octopus Balls getting their shape

Enjoying my box of Takoyaki with Bonito Flakes

plasticmom with her Berlin style ham hock...I love how you can eat everything with a skewer

Big Pig Little Pig...we didn't get this sausage in a sausage [turduken style] snack since the line was way too long

Interesting new concept: "Stir Fry Ice Cream"

I splurged for the waffle bowl for $10 Taiwan Dollars or 33 cents USD

Old money in the most literal sense

Often when I travel, my family will give me dribs and drabs of foreign currency from some trip they took 10-30 years ago. It's super generous and I'm always happy to "help out" and use up their old paper money and coins. They're highly organized so it's always in little ziploc bags, but the money is often kinda "vintage" which frequently lends to some funny looks and comments when I attempt to buy anything. Hey, money is money right? It's a good way to meet the locals and it sure makes for some good stories. Now, I just need to plan a trip to Brunei to spend the lone $1 bill I found accidentally stashed in my Singapore ziploc. It's worth about 80 cents US.

Dunkin Donuts - Davis Square
DDLady: That'll be $2 for the medium coffee.
plasticann: Here's a $20.
DD Lady: [looks at the bill] This is really old money, but it looks brand new.
plasticann: [slightly embarrassed] It's from my grandma.
DD Lady: [smiles] It's always the grandmas. Ha ha!

Clothing Store - Vancouver
plasticann: I have some "older" money, will you accept it?
Cashier: Let me take a look.
plasticann: [hands over the bill] I was going to exchange it for a new one at the bank, but if you'll take it, it'll save me a trip.
Cashier: Oh my goodness, I've never seen this type of money. It's REALLY old and it looks brand new. My dad collects old money, I think I might go to the ATM and get a new one to exchange it for this old one.

Food Court - Singapore
Cashier: It'll be $8.60 for the pork BBQ.
plasticann: Here's a ten.
Cashier: [examines the bill and shows it to an older guy as if to ask, "is this real money, I've never seen it before. Older guy nods in approval and she accepts my bill]

Coffeeshop - Singapore
Cashier: It'll be $6 for the flat white.
plasticann: Here's a ten.
Cashier: Oh my god, this is really old. It's like an original. [Shows the barista]
Barista: I haven't seen one in a LONG time. I've never seen one in such good condition.

7-11 - Singapore
Elderly cashier: The total is $3 for the waters.
plasticann: [hands over three $1 bills]
Elderly cashier: These are like originals. They don't even make $1 bills anymore. It's all coins.
plasticann: ummm, will you take it?
Elderly cashier: Yes of course.

plasticmom, the typhoon expert

I think it's fortunate that I find plasticmom quite amusing and very endearing. There's a big typhoon projected to hit Taiwan in the next 24 hours, but we managed to fit in a very nice dinner out tonight because Adam and I [cross our fingers] are hoping to leave for Singapore tomorrow if the typhoon passes quickly. Here's a reconstruction of our conversation after we left the restaurant with our bellies beyond full.

plasticann: Should we take a cab home?
plasticmom: No, we walk!
plasticann: Isn't it a typhoon?
plasticmom: It's not raining, just a little wind. When I was growing up, I had to go to school even if it was windy as long as it wasn't raining.
plasticann: OK....I guess we can walk, it's not so bad out. It's a little "refreshing" with the wind. Adam, are you OK to walk?
Adam: [wincing and carrying our bag of leftovers] Yeah, it's not too bad, we can walk.
plasticmom: This is nothing. Just a little wind. When I was a kid, I'd have to go out and buy bread or groceries for the family when there was knee high flooded water.
plasticann: Would you wear big rubber boots?
plasticmom: Rubber boots are useless the water was so high. You just get wet!
plasticann: Yuck, did you shower when you got home?
plasticmom: Of course, but when I was little, I thought it was fun to go out in a typhoon. It was like an adventure. This wind is small, no big deal. It's not even raining.
[rain starts falling]
plasticmom: Just a little wind and a little rain. It's a really big deal when the wind bends you backwards and you can't walk forward.
[Gale of forceful wind pushes against us]
plasticmom: I can't walk forward.
plasticann: Do you think it's time to take a cab NOW?
plasticmom: YES!!!

The wind went from "breezy" to full on "I can't walk forward" in about 3 minutes. plasticmom couldn't even open the cab door the wind was so strong. Adam had to get out and open it for her.

They've been tying down all the trees today preparing for the typhoon

Trees...ready to take on the wind. Adam is unfortunately not tied down.

Chip-a-holic

Adam has a bit of chip buying habit that I FULLY support and even encourage. The man needs a hobby and as far as hobbies go, this one is fairly sustainable and light on the pocketbook. Whenever we travel, Adam seeks out new chips to share with friends, especially super fiery ones to share with our friend Zave. We went to the A-Mart underground supermarket near our hotel tonight to stock up. Here are some photos I shot of Adam exploring his most favorite habitat...the grocery store.

Adam requested a cart with a basket to comfortably shop for all his snacks

I tried to get him to buy these Bugle type "American Corn Snacks" complete with a map of the US and American flag motif, but Adam didn't want to be "those Americans." I don't really know what it means, but I do know we didn't buy this box of snacks

Variety of Ritz sandwich cookie snacks including some sort of creme, lime and chocolate

"Original Butter" flavored Lays, never tried these before

Adam methodically checking out every single bin of chips. At least 20 minutes were spent examining all sorts of chips from Lays to Doritos to Staxs to Pringles and so on

Peking Duck Feast

Last night was family dinner out with slightly extended family at Shang Palace Restaurant in the Shangrila's Far Eastern Plaza Hotel for Peking Duck three ways and a few other dishes. Since Adam doesn't speak Mandarin or Taiwanese, he was happy to spend the entire dinner snapping photos and enjoying many helpings of food. Interestingly, we forgot to take photos of family. Oh well!

Cold dish appetizer, a sort of black mushroom

Crispy pork skin, just the skin. We gobbled up half of it before Adam could take a photo

Cold dish of bean curd and small crispy whole fish

Chinese sausage three ways: "pork sausage with liver," chinese sausage and "pork"

Here comes the duck! plasticmom wanted it carved table side so she knew for sure which duck was ours

Duck the first way with all the fixings. Basically a duck burrito or wrap your own spring roll

Crepe pancake, black bean sauce, duck, cucumber and scallions

Duck the second way is stir fried with lots of veggies

Duck the third way is a soup with bitter melon

.....and we got pork spare ribs

Dishes without photo credits: garlic spinach and tofu with veggies

Totally Lost in Cultural Translation

You would think I'd be more fluent in navigating differences in communications styles here in Taiwan, but alas, I'm a bumbling idiot at times. While I may speak some of the language, my cultural literacy isn't as good as it could be. Namely, the issue is indirect communication versus an American value on being a straight talker. Here are some somewhat frustrating, but hilarious in hindsight examples.

Let me check if she is home

plasticann: [approaching the front desk] I'm here to see Ms. Plasticmom on the XYZ floor
Front Desk: I'm not sure she's home, let me call up to make sure she's in
plasticann: I just talked to her, she's definitely home
Front Desk: I really don't want to inconvenience you so I just want to double check and make sure she's home

It took me way too long to finally realize that when they're saying "we want to make sure she's home," it really means "we're not sure who you are and whether we should even let you up, but we're way too nice to say that to your face so we're telling you that we want to check if she's home."

It would be much more convenient for us....

plasticann: I'm interested in booking two half day tours, the afternoon tour on Tuesday and a morning tour on Wednesday
Tour Company: Yes, we can do that. We recommend that you do both half day tours in one day. That's our recommendation
plasticann: Thank you for your recommendation, but I'm interested in taking the two half day tours on two different days
Tour Company: Yes, but we recommend you take them both in one day. It is better.
plasticann: [utterly confused] Can you help me understand why it's better to take them in one day? I'd prefer to take them on two days so I don't have to spend an entire day on the bus.
Tour Company: Yes, but we recommend you take them in one day because it is convenient for us.
plasticann: Uhhhh OK, is it no possible to take them on two different days.
Tour Company: [exasperated] Yes we can take you on two different days, but it's more convenient for us if you go in one day. We said we'd pick you up for one tour so of course we'd honor that and pick you up another day
plasticann: Ummm, I'm going to have to call you back

Basically, I was being totally dense. From a very Americanized perspective, citing inconvenience makes absolutely no sense to me. Try explaining to Adam what "inconvenient" means when I don't understand it myself. As Adam said, "as a customer, isn't it my job to be a little inconvenient to you?" Yup, we're a bunch of American jerks even when we don't mean it. Finally, much too much later, I figured out that she was saying, "I really don't want to pick you up on two different days for tours."

Ice Cream Spring Roll...is it ok to have another favorite

Another day another three meals plus snacks of course. We went on two guided out of town excursions today which offered a couple of opportunities for new treats. After our morning tour to Keelung and Yehliu Park to see the Queen's Head geological rock formation, we returned to Taipei for a longer than expected lunch break. Adam suggested we check out the Saboten Tonkatsu [fried panko crusted pork cutlet] restaurant on the 6th floor of the Shin Kong Mitsukoshi A9 building. We'd seen a huge line of people waiting outside this restaurant last weekend and all the waiting supplicants enthusiastically told us it was delicious. Anything with a long line is probably worth trying at least one time in my book.

We each got a little bowl to grind our sesame seeds before adding the Tonkatsu sauce

Adam and I both felt that this whole grinding things came dangerously close to us preparing our own food, a restaurant concept neither of us enjoy.

Tonkatsu Curry and Rice...deliciously light and crisp and the curry was yummy

Regular Tonkatsu, we chose the "fattier" pork cutlet option for this one

After lunch, we headed out on our second half day tour to Chiufen Village, an old town built over 100 years ago into a steep mountain. It used to be a copper and gold mining town. I guess they used to mine giant melon sized gold, but it kinda sounds like an urban legend. I certainly didn't uncover any giant melon sized gold nuggets. 

Chiufen: Narrow steep streets, old shops, lots of tourists

Fried cheese bread...NOT at all delicious. Kind of a bust!

Lots of stands selling mochi dessert soups...

...so we had to try some ourselves

After we got back to Taipei, we met up with plasticmom for a progressive dinner. First stop was Emperor Foods, a quick service chain serving pork chops, chicken cutlets, fish cutlet and pork belly.

Pork chop noodle and pork chop rice to share

Pork chop close up. Very tender, even the little pickles were good

Stop two was the dumpling restaurant near Emperor Foods. They were rolling dumpling wrappers by hand and making them by hand. We shared an order of guo tieh or pan fried dumplings and a bowl of hot sour soup. 

We dug into the dumplings before I could take a photo

Basket of garlic cloves and a hand silicone tool to remove the garlic skin

Adam demonstrating his superior chopstick skills

Apple soda...very refreshing

Finally we stopped by the Tonghua night market with plasticmom who was excited by the prospect of shopping for bags. We were stuffed from dinner, but we managed to find room for our new favorite, ice cream spring rolls. You're probably thinking, "SHUT UP!" That's right, ice cream spring rolls. Fresh spring roll wrapper filled with freshly grated peanut brittle, three scoops of ice cream and a sprinkle of fresh cilantro wrapped up like a spring roll. Cilantro might sound strange, but it works.

Giant block of peanut brittle, a plane grater

Spring roll wrapper, layer of peanut brittle shavings, ice cream and cilantro

Wrap it all up like a snug spring roll